Saturday, August 31, 2013

Birthday celebration

Last week was my birthday.  I never dreamed I would turn 30 while living in Italy.  To celebrate, David and I went to a restaurant called ‘La Drogherria Rossa’.  It was only 2 blocks from our apartment.  La Drogheria is a gourmet restaurant set in an old apothecary shop, which was special for me, since I used to work in a pharmacy.  We had such a special meal there- I will never forget it.  It was more than just a meal- it was an experience.  
We sat down at the table, and the waiter immediately brought us bread, water, and wine.  Soon after, an older gentleman with pink glasses (this seems to be the style in Italy- I’ve seen many men with red or pink frames) came over and asked us what we’d like.  We were never given a menu- he simply told us the three dishes of pasta he was serving that day.  I asked him what he recommended, and he said he’d bring us each a sample of his specialties- the tagliatelle al ragu (the traditional Bologna dish)- and his own creation, cheese ravioli with sautéed zucchini flowers.  
For the 2nd course, we again asked him what he recommended, and he said he’d bring us each something different.  He served David a steak fillet in balsamic vinaigrette.  I was served a plate of cold, thinly sliced veal with a tarragon cream sauce.  We ate at an outside table at a leisurely pace, just enjoying being together on my birthday.  The owner sat at a table right next to us drinking with a few friends.  He chatted with us during the meal, talking about his hometown in the south and how Italian cuisine differs depending on the region.  During the course of the meal, he also had waiters bring around plates of food for us to try.  He would say, “Here, this is bread made in the style of my hometown- try a piece.”  Or, “this is a traditional pasta where I come from- you must try it.”  That pasta was really spicy!  He brought us a bottle of red wine for our meal, but his friend at the next table also offered us a taste of the sparkling white wine he was drinking.  As I said- this was more than a meal, it was an experience.  I felt like I was in an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s ‘No Reservations’.  
The waiter asked if we wanted dessert, so I ordered an espresso.  After our plates were cleared away and I was thinking “I never want to eat again, I’m so full” the waiter set more plates in front of us.  The anticipation was exciting- what would he bring us next?  The answer was a fresh slice of watermelon, which was a really refreshing way to end the meal.  The owner said it was really nice to see 2 people talking and enjoying being with each other.  He asked us if we were on our honeymoon.  We told him no, we have been married almost 6 years now.  He said he has been married 22 years, and is hoping to make it another 30 with his wife.  
By this point it was 3:00 (the end of lunch in Italy) and the restaurant was empty except for us.  We shook hands with the owner and told him everything was ‘molto bene’ and ‘piacere’ (a pleasure).  His friend was excited that we could speak a few words in Italian and raised his wineglass to us in a toast as we said goodbye.  It was an experience that I will remember fondly, and the perfect way to spend my birthday.


Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Parma



Ah, Parma.  One guide-book to Italy says “If reincarnation ever becomes an option, pray you come back as a Parmesan.”  After spending a day in this charming city, it’s easy to understand why.  Parma is a foodie city- known for its cheese, of course, its prosciutto, and sparkling wines. 
The food, in fact, is the main reason why we decided to venture out from Bologna.  It’s only an hour away by train.  When we arrived in Parma, we headed first to Parco Ducale.  We took a quick stroll around the park, snapped a few photos, and then it was time for some food!




We ate at a restaurant called Trattoria Corrieri, and I had THE BEST Italian food in my life.  On the recommendation of the waiter, we ordered a plate of 3 different kinds of ravioli.  We had ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, potato and ham, and pumpkin.  This was the real deal, folks- fresh, hand-made pasta served with olive oil that just melted in your mouth.  It was incredible- words can’t describe it. My favorite was the spinach and ricotta.  The pumpkin was good as well, but a bit too sweet for me.  David sampled some red and white sparkling wine.  I must say, the sparkling wine was much better than I expected- very refreshing on a hot summer afternoon.  


Parma has a very nice Duomo, which unfortunately is under-going reconstruction at the moment.  We did walk through the cathedral, but what sets Parma apart from other Italian towns is the Battistero, or baptistery, pictured below.  It’s an octagonal building made of pink Verona marble.  I've never seen anything like it.  




After touring the churches, we headed home, a block of native parmigiano reggiano cheese in hand.  Though under-rated, Parma is a quiet, relaxing town and well worth the trip. 


Sunday, August 18, 2013

La Casa



La Casa

We have a home…and it’s in Italy!  David and I spent an exhausting 4 hours on Thursday looking at 30 different apartments around Bologna, led by the incomparable Signore Salvatore La Ferlita.  Salvatore has 3 giant key rings with probably a hundred keys total, and he knows exactly to which apartment they belong.  I just want to clarify that David and I were part of a group of 6 other students also looking for apartments, which is why it took so long.  I had prayed before we left that the Lord would provide us with the right apartment to meet our needs and within our budget.  He answered our prayers!  By 7pm on Thursday, we had signed the contract and headed to our new home. 
 
Our apartment is on Via Santo Stefano, on the south-eastern side of Bologna.  Pictures are below.   







It sadly does not have the terrace I was hoping for, but it does have a charming living room, and a really nice kitchen.  It’s about a 15 min walk to either the center of the city, and a 12 min walk to school.  There seem to be a lot of nice cafes in the area, but everything in the city is closed.  And I do mean everything.  David and I had lunch at Burger King yesterday.  August is vacation month in Italy, and most shopkeepers have closed up and headed to the beach.  

However, we have had 2 great meals so far of tortellini and lasagna, and I am amazed at how great the food is…and how cheap!  We can get really great baguettes, prosciutto, and cheese at the local supermarket, and it costs maybe half of what it would back home.  

After summer vacation, or feria, ends, I'll post some more pictures of Bologna.

Ciao!


Saturday, August 10, 2013

David & I will be moving to Bologna, Italy for his first year of grad school with Johns Hopkins.  While David is hard at work, I will be traveling, and of course, eating my way through Italy!  We leave in a few days, and will arrive in Bologna on the 14th.  The last few weeks have been a whirlwind of preparing and packing.  I don't have anything to post about Italy yet, so I wanted to share a picture of my favorite little guy who's staying state-side.